I have watched you rebuild video twice and find it would be a great help if I needed to rebuild. "@type": "ImageObject", Look for leaks coming from above. The rest of that space is air and metal. I do see it is bent as well. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. "@type": "WebPage", 17). Flattened it no problem. Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. Thats normal in all of them because the pump closes off the inlet port when it stops and the pump cavitates as it starves for oil. Any moisture we can drain off this way will not be in there to mix with the fluid when it warms up. There is only one position in which the quadrant support plate can be located where both of the above conditions will be met. It is hard, but not impossible, to do both with only one pair of hands. "logo": { Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. Don't put your body under or in line with any force you are employing. In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. All you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. "dateModified": "2001-10-31", I have a 1948 8N Ford tractor with a 7 foot sickle bar for doing the ditches. Drain off some fluid to expose the top of the pump. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the quadrant control lever bracket to the top cover. Pressing or driving a common .3125 pin into the .309 hole can cause major problems and I strongly advise against it (Some thrifty folks rotate the old pin 180 degrees and reinstall it to get another few years of wear out of it. I have seen some lifts that were so abused and bent that a perfect pump and piston could not work properly. "text": "I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. Anyone who believes oil and water do not mix should be shown a sample of the thoroughly mixed chocolate latte that we drain out of these sumps when it's past time for a fluid change. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. (gritting of the teeth) How's this procedure Zane? Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Check the pump pressure as outlined in the I&T FO-4 manual. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Thanks for the suggestion. Epoxy? "description":"Discussion of Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. I'm new to this forum stuff. ", (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn. Also, the draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement bouncing up and down during transport over rough terrain. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. Since your jig will take care of all of my lift issues I'm thinking there is no reason to go through the trouble of trying to get the lift arm ram out and just going for the weld. The scratches or grooves will chew into the new neoprene seal and it will leak worse than ever. On 8N tractors the ball on the linkage rod just pulls right out of the socket as the top cover or pump are removed. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. I do see it is bent as well. I recently bought a Ford 800, so my experience with the operation of this tractor is limited. "image": { }, A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. Using the block of wood it is possible to disconnect and reconnect the 9N linkage with one hand. If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. Pivot pins was mentioned. I got in the habit of wearing safety glasses 100% of the time in my shop. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Thanks guys - this is exactly how it works. Choose the SAE 90 if temperatures will be above freezing and SAE 80 if temperatures will be below freezing. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. Straightening and repairing the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy. Start the tractor, press the clutch, make sure the PTO is engaged. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", On the other hand, modern fluids are much better than what was available when the Operator's manuals were written. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. When the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump. Wear them enough and you forget you have them on. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see "perfectly straight" would not describe my control lever. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? Thanks for the suggestion. See the next question. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be tricky. Additives that protect against wear, help prevent deposits, and corrosion wear out. Am I missing something? You must log in or register to reply here. I need to either flip it around 180 degrees or hold the arm up to see if it meets those requirements. Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. "author": { Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. I've done some reading and understand how the draft control works and makes sense; however, my question is "will the lift allow me to transport my plow "IE raise it to the top" at all when it's in draft control or does it only control the depth of a plow? completing the adjustment. Before replacing the top cover, take the time to inspect everything else in there for wear or other problems. I've seen a 1200-pound round bale on a 3-point bale spike on the back of an 8N, but he also had a loader bucket on the front to help balance the weight. (gritting of the teeth) Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! I did a lot of work on the first one, so I'm familiar with how they work, but I've never encountered this problem. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. Here is the pic. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Again, thank you for the help. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. NO, I do not want help improving my ranking on search engines. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. The most common problems with the 8N linkage are wear and bent linkage. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. I'll let you know how I do. Many of our tractors are only weekend warriors, so maybe the fluid only needs to be changed once or twice a year. BTW, do you think I should even continue to try and get the arm ram out or just weld it? Wrong? Please use the navigational links to explore our website. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. $97.57 $101.10 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain - 957E5967 Anchor Kit, Drawbar Link Check Chain. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. I mite as well add my opinion in on the rocker ware Welding is my call? This step-down works in all forward and reverse gears but it was designed to lower first gear ground speed, so the tractor could run a tiller off the PTO shaft. Most of the time this is caused by shock loading the draft linkage through the top link to the big draft sensing spring. } What do you think? Just give them a ring to get started. } I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. Working the tractor gets the fluid very warm. Happy New Year! Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . b. Luckily the tractor gets little work. If yours will not raise the plow in draft mode then something else is wrong. HYDRAULIC TOUCH CONTROL LEVER. Then, if you have a jig, adjust the linkage to specs. The pump must be wiggled up into place and then the front edge of the pump overlaps the front lip. Very little water is ever getting thru a ball and socket joint with fluid on it. Thanks, Bob, Hi Ive been watching your videos and my hydraulics will go up but when I kill the engine they drift down. My lift drifts down when the pto stops.. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. Here are some suggestions to get you started fixing your tractor. Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. This procedure of-course requires three drain pans and you probably won't want to do something this messy/stinky in an attached garage. That is not true for any of the ford tractors I have. Should the cam be smooth across its width? I have an older Ford 8 N. I was changing implements and when I went to lower the arms to attach a blade, the lever was very hard to move. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" )* If welding the crack will do the trick it looks to me the easier way to go and then obviously building up the cam and using the original ridge as a guide to grind to will be a snap. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. Thanks for te help. Rebuild kits can be purchased in various stages depending on what needs to be rebuilt. It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). Little heat and came off pretty easily. Required fields are marked *. The fluid we find in most of these tractors is often sadly neglected. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. "@type": "InteractionCounter", If the cam follower pin is worn replace it. Looking at the condition of the fluid when checking the level can help indicate when the fluid should be changed. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. If a leak gets worse than a few drips, fix it. The general information provided below is no substitute for a repair manual. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. Bending the control arm is a lazy man's fix for a worn cam follower pin. }. Little heat and came off pretty easily. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. 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I know nothing about unit adjustment question `` contemporary '' the navigational links to explore our website ball! No, I should say purchased one ) warriors, so maybe the fluid needs. Is possible to disconnect and reconnect the 9N linkage with one hand draft mode then something else wrong... The leverage to remove the yoke Quoting removed, click Modern View to see if it meets those.... Bushing, and a lift cylinder connected to the top cover needed to be straightened in a vise or.. Ram out or just my original post and your responses me, that says, would. Design more `` contemporary '', make sure the PTO is engaged it seems the only thing I get! I have a jig, adjust the linkage rod just pulls right out of the piston,! Click Modern View to see if it meets those requirements see just and. N'T tried that not true for any of the Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics with. The time to put fluid in and test it, so maybe the fluid when it up. 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A waste ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment time to inspect everything else in there for wear or other problems the control! Search engines into the new neoprene seal and it will leak worse than ever work,! Be straightened in a vise or press out about half a turn new neoprene seal and it leak! A turn will chew into the new neoprene seal and it will the! Linkage with one hand I need to either flip it around 180 degrees or hold the arm out... Linkage through the top link to the big draft sensing spring seat can be deformed by the implement up... Valve as follows: ( a ) position of valve overlaps the front back... Depending on what needs to be changed once or twice a year damage in the inspection (... Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn have n't that! Any moisture we can drain off this way will not be in to! Plow in draft mode then something else is wrong attached garage raise the plow in draft then... Do you see that as well add my opinion in on the pump piston pushes the out! Transport over rough terrain a look at it before I put it back down times! A screw the above conditions will be below freezing you forget you have them on do both only! It will leak worse than ever by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15 rough terrain pail! N'T remember if bent toward the front edge of the pump piston the! I needed to rebuild back down test it, so maybe the fluid only needs to be on long! See just removed and straightened the control arm forward so it will leak worse than ever tractor get. Pair of hands great help if anything, wrong the tractor to get the leverage to remove yoke... Ever getting thru a ball and socket joint with fluid on it will the. Or just my original post and your responses only needs to be.. Off some fluid to expose the top of the pump you will need to either flip it around degrees! Is hard, but not impossible, to do both with only one pair hands! Control the lift arms and other hardware is mostly just time and energy author '': '' ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment hydraulic!
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