Ai-je loup quelque chose . If you want to capture a fast subject such as a bird in flight, you might want to set the minimum shutter speed to something like 1/1600 or 1/2000 of a second. HINT: Mirrorless takes a second to turn on or wake from sleep, which can seem like a long time if you don't tap the shutter until you have already brought your camera to your eye while walking around at an event. In Continuous AF (AF-C) there are YELLOW boxes around found faces, and RED boxes around whatever's being tracked. WARNING: At least as of the current (as of this writing) firmware 1.01, the complete camera settings backup and restore to the card function is defective. Posted by. Autofocus systems are also a bit different, with the Nikon Z6 sporting a total of 273 focus points and Z7 having 493. To make the EVF and the LCD also zoom in to 1:1 when shooting (incredibly useful when manually focusing), I set the same button to Zoom on/off -> 1:1 under Shooting Mode. You may prefer to set the finder brightness manually. My menu settings are very different I start off with more critical things like Focus Mode, AF-area mode, Metering, and Bracketing. Viewfinder only: This mode enables only the EVF and turns off the LCD completely. Here are the settings that I personally use: Once again, I wont go into details about each setting, so let me just go over the most important ones that you should know about. The only thing I would do is set up Image comment and Copyright information. The ISO button allows quick change of ISO with the rear dial, and the front dial allows switching Auto ISO on and off. I do not like the default settings that Nikon provides on the Z6 II, since there are things like Picture Controls and Image Quality that I never touch. has the ability to save focus position, so that your camera does not reset its focus when you turn the camera off and back on. In addition, the Z6 has a better low-light sensitivity range of -3.5 to 19 EV vs -2 to 19 EV. The rest of the Controls section, as well as the Movie section I kept at default settings, although if you shoot movies a lot with the Nikon Z6, you might want to review the settings there. The Z6 II camera body is priced at Rs 1,64,995, and the Z7 II camera body comes . bigger. In this article, I will provide detailed information on what settings I recommend for the Nikon Z6 II and explain what some of the camera buttons and controls do. Basically, once you switch the autofocus function from your shutter release (half-press) to the AF-ON button on the back of the camera, your camera will no longer autofocus through the shutter release button and will only respond to depressing the rear AF-ON button. Being able to quickly access critical camera settings is very important for me, so I chose the ones above for that reason. If you ever happen to lose your memory card somewhere (which I personally have in the past) and someone finds it (lets just assume that you have no labels on the card with your info) leaving your Copyright and/or Name could help big time in finding/locating you. This is where a lot of people get lost since there are so many different settings. If you would like to find out more about this and check out some comparisons of the two cameras at different ISOs, check out our detailed Nikon Z6 vs Z7 article. The electronic viewfinder (EVF) mode button sits on the left side of the viewfinder, to the right of the PASM dial. This is also the best option if your subject is likely to move closer or further away from your camera in the time it takes you to focus and recompose. Personally, I add a few menu options here such as ISO sensitivity settings, Interval timer shooting and Time-lapse movie but thats all a matter of preference. These lenses have to get closer to the sensor, and are the original mirrorless lenses. Although the Nikon Z6 is practically identical in its build, button layout / design and ergonomics to the Z7, there are some important differences between the two cameras worth going over. I mostly use this mode when shooting landscapes and doing travel photography. I can't vouch for ads below. Custom Settings are used to customize camera settings to suit individual preferences. Nikon Z7, Nikon 14-30mm at 14mm at f/11, 104 second time exposure, Perfectly Clear v3.7 "landscapes" mode. First up is the Primary slot selection menu option. The Custom Settings menu is divided into two levels. The amber CHARGE LED above the USB-C port is easily hidden by the plastic connector cover flap, and takes several seconds to turn on, so be patient. I really wish Nikon would make more smaller fast lenses. Turn on the Z6 and use Apple's Image Capture program to download directly from the card. Clarity: I leave this at its default of +1. Exposure Compensation works in a similar way as ISO, except the front dial duplicates the function of the rear dial to tweak your exposure. bigger, full resolution or camera-original JPG file. Basic Settings for Landscape Photography The following are the recommended settings for photographing landscapes: 1. Reviews Under Custom Settings, go to f2 to change what the camera does when using the following buttons: Fn1, Fn2, sub-selector, sub-selector center, AF-ON, movie record button, (F-mount NIKKOR) Lens Fn button and lens control ring. This is known as Limit AF-area mode selection. Prioritize viewfinder: This mode makes the camera work similar to a DSLR camera, where the LCD screen is turned off by default and the EVF is enabled. The camera will then use EFCS at shutter speeds of 1/250 and slower while switching to mechanical shutter at faster shutter speeds. How do I do? Up to 12 fps. However, if you need to do a quick edit of your images or videos, you can do it from here. To keep the clutter out, I have three things turned on: Focus point, which allows me to see where I focused, Highlights to show overexposure in shots (a.k.a. You select these depending on the light under which you're shooting. Many Palouse Autofocus systems are also a bit different, with the Nikon Z6 sporting a total of 273 focus points and Z7 having 493. My default sensitivity level is 1 (Low), but if you dont have good vision, you might want to increase it to standard or high. Under Shooting/display, the three main settings to note are Exposure delay mode, Shutter type and Apply settings to live view. Make sure to add a few important items under MY MENU, so that you can have quick access to them. I like keeping Face detection on when using Auto-area AF mode and it works fairly well. Am I missing something here? 273 AF points. Instead of going through the whole menu again, let me show you the settings that differ for each user setting on my Nikon Z6. On the top left side of the camera, you will find a standard PASM dial with a lock button on the top. Quick sharp: I don't touch this; this is a one-stop way to adjust all of the settings below with one control. blinkies) and Overview, which gives me a summary of my exposure (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, focal length, etc). Higher shutter speeds require you use a higher ISO, which makes the image softer. Then put that card in your Z6, set your Z6 to P, S, A or M mode on the top dial, press MENU > Wrench (Setup) > Save/Load settings (near the bottom of the menu, not the "Save user settings" option at the top) > Load settings > OK. When pressing the DISP button, the camera cycles between the following: Here is the graphical representation of all this: Personally, I prefer to use an uncluttered view with minimal information when composing my images, so I use the Simplified display. Here, you can pick your favorite selections for each assignable button. When it comes to camera metering, Matrix metering works really well in most environments and thats what I use most of the time, but sometimes other metering modes can come in handy. There's an easy work around: be sure to set MENU > CUSTOM (pencil) > dShooting/display > d8 Apply settings to live view > Disable and you'll always see a finder image so you can focus and compose but it won't show you your exposure or picture controls until you play back. When shooting landscapes, I assume that you are going to be using a tripod. By default, you probably want to set your camera to what you see is what you get mode, so that changes to your exposure are visible on the EVF and the LCD. Excellent. Once you playback a picture or press one of the buttons that engages the camera menu, the LCD screen turns on. Now obviously the best ISO setting on the Z6 & Z6ii is the Native ISO 100 setting or the setting you need to capture your footage or photograph but did you know that the Nikon Z6 series has a built-in dual ISO setting? If you find this page as helpful as a book you might have had to buy or a workshop you may have had to take, feel free to help me continue helping everyone. This all-content, junk-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to my personally-approved sources when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. The problem is in AF-C, continuous AF, RED means IN FOCUS - GO and YELLOW means UNLOCKED, STOP! To activate bracketing, set Number of Frames to anything other than 0. I find this mode so helpful I sometimes set one of Fn buttons to it. I choose 14-bit to get the best image quality the camera can deliver and Lossless compression results in much smaller files than Uncompressed. Face recognition is awful because while it finds faces well, the Z6 focuses on random faces, rarely the one you need. ISO sensitivity settings: Maximum sensitivity: 6400 Auto ISO control (mode M): ON ISO sensitivity (mode M): 100 White balance: AUTO1 Set Picture Control: NL Active D-Lighting: OFF High ISO NR: OFF (assuming you will post-process with better NR) Vignette control: N Diffraction Compensation: ON Auto distortion control: ON Flicker reduction: AUTO bigger or camera-original file. In the old DSLR, I used to get a black dot on the bottom left of my viewfinder and also a little sound that I have setup when using AE-L/AF-L for AF-ON. I don't use the AUTO position on the top dial because it locks-out many of the advanced settings I use. Gallery Sadly there has to be a "Low Light AF" option at MENU > Custom (pencil) > a11 Low-light AF. I set P on the top dial ("Program" or "Pro" exposure mode which selects aperture and shutter speed automatically) and leave everything else in auto: Auto focus, Automatic AF Area selection, Auto ISO, Auto White Balance, Auto minimum shutter speed in Auto ISO, etc. About If you would like to download my Nikon Z6 II settings to your camera without having to go through the whole menu one by one, please download the below file: Please note that the above firmware file is good for firmware 1.10. For AF-S priority selection, the Focus option forces the camera to acquire focus before taking the shot, so thats the one I would recommend keeping by default. No more will you turn it on the next day and still be in self-timer mode from the night before! Q: About the backup/restore option; does the Save/load settings save and load all the menu/settings for each U1, U2, U3 user setting? Basically, these settings add text information that gets embedded into each photograph. This gives the Z6 a bit of an edge in low-light environments, whereas the Z7 does better in terms of dynamic range at base ISO. Larry A comment on digital photography - "Red is gray and yellow white, but we decide which is right ..and which is an illusion" Moody Blues - Nights in White Satin My Nikon Z6II Mirrorless AF Settings For Birds In Flight AF Servo Mode: Continuous (AF-C) a1: AF-C priority selection - Release a2: AF-S priority selection - Focus a3: Focus tracking with lock-on (5) a4: Focus points used - ALL a5: Store points on orientation - Yes (on) a6: AF activation -OFF AF-On only (Enable) (back button focus only) I always turn the Rotate tall setting off, because I do not want my camera to rotate vertical images to horizontal when I review them it is much easier to rotate the camera to see a vertical image, rather than having to zoom in every single time. My menu settings are very different I start off with more critical things like Focus Mode, AF-area mode, Metering, and Bracketing. See Use with Adapted Rangefinder Lenses for more. 2018 Nikon Z7 with 1956 W-NIKKORC 3.5cm f/1.8 (see Adapting Rangefinder Lenses to Nikon Mirrorless), f/4 at 10 seconds at ISO 64, shown exactly as shot. The SB-400 is much better for mirrorless than today's bigger, crummier and more expensive SB-300 and SB-500. Press the shutter and it stays open until you press it again. Set your camera the way I do (see my Setup file above) and you'll always get the sharpest pictures. Nasim Mansurov is the author and founder of Photography Life, based out of Denver, Colorado. Get the kit with 24-70mm f/4 and FTZ adapter. Therefore if you have more than one person on the frame you may need to click the rear controller left or right several times until you manually direct it to the correct face. 99% of the time when people ask me to diagnose their soft pictures it's because they set their camera manually and set it wrong. 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